"currently battling with my dear friend, the Silverstripe CMS" - 18 hours ago
"is thoroughly relaxed at another Irish farmhouse B&B, this time one run by a character and a half, Sharon Moore.... http://fb.me/Fd1zVe5z" - 1 day ago
"Is this the Nellie bunker you were talking about mate? Safely avoided I'm pleased to report http://fb.me/EHAvCmyU" - 2 days ago
Day 222 at Carnoustie
I am honoured to be a guest blogger for Pure Golf on day 221 of this epic adventure for the boys. I am Gents (Marc Gentles) who the boys have previously mentioned on a few of their blogs.
I met the boys in Dundee and after a few dodgy directions (one which took us onto a one way street, into the path of an oncoming bus) we made it to the famous links land of Carnoustie, or as it has been more aptly named since the 1999 Open "CARNASTY".
There are a few different stories as to what the term "Links" actually means but my favourite and the one I usually tell people when asked "what dose the word links actually mean"?? Is simply that its the bit of land that LINKS the sea to the arable farm land. I hope that has cleared that up for you readers...
Sorry to digress. Back to the golf... Our host for the day was another greenkeeper, Mr Gary Duncan who has played here since he was a wee lad. He caddied on the course for a while and has now turned his hand to greenkeeping. So with this wealth of local knowledge there would be no excuses for steering the ball in the wrong direction!!
Golf was played here in the 1500s but the current Course was not layed out until 1842, then substantially revised by James Braid in 1926. After the 1931 Open was well received, the only problem was that the finishing holes were an insufficient test. Prior to the 1937 Open a local golfer James Wright, redesigned the last 3 holes wrapping them round the menacing "Barry Burn" creating one of the toughest finishes anywhere in golf. Just ask Jean Van De Velde.
After checking in with the starter we threw the balls up and it was myself and J.P to take on G Duncan and Mike. Evenings like the one we were experiencing are few and far between at Carnoustie. There was not a breath of wind and the sun was out in all its Scottish force. With rarely any sea views and grim industrial areas of the grey town prominent from several positions, Carnoustie is far from the prettiest links in Scotland, but it certainly makes up for any aesthetic shortcomings with a very strategic routing.
The first hole is a nice opener with only one fairway bunker down the right side it is then played downhill to a partially hidden green. Team M.G and J.P were off to an early lead and a birdie down the first.
The first real taste of what to expect after the gentle first is the awesome 2nd which when playing in the flat calm proves a lot easier than playing into the gust of the prevailing wind. Especially when the pin is tucked deep on this 60 yard long green pinched in by bunkers. After a sensational birdie by G Dunc it was back to square and on to Jockies Burn...
The short third hole is a fiddly little par 4 which only measures 351yards which sounds easy but when you stand on the elevated 3rd tee its only then that you have to start making decisions. Option 1 would be to lay up short of all the bunkers and attack the green from around 140 yards, Option 2 would be to fly the double bunkers cut into the right side of the fairway but in doing this there is potential to hit a hard down slope and run into the ditch which runs up the left side of the fairway before cutting across the front of the green. Option 3 would be to smash driver and hope for the best. We all went for option 1. Although the mind games had started on the 3rd tee when J.P mentioned the word "Shank" just before Mike hit. The front portion of the green slopes from back to front so anything short spinning into this green will end up wet. The back plateau sits in 2 small bowls and anything big will end up in the back hollow leaving a tricky putt the back pin position. The match was all square after a friendly half.
Hole 4 is a little gentle dog leg left to right. There is a fairway bunker either side of the fairway and a ditch running down the left side. With the whole of Carnoustie on the right side you should never really threaten the left side as Mike did, ending up in the ditch. After a penalty drop and a great shot in to the only double green at Carnoustie a great par was saved. J.P was also favouring the left side but was not quite far enough left to reach the burn. 4 solid pars from J.P meant the game was still square.
Hole 5 is again a slight left to right dog leg. From the tee you have to make a decision whether or not to attempt the 280 yard carry over Jockys Burn. I tried and failed, the other 3 were more sensible. The shot in to the green can be a 4 club difference depending on where the pin is cut on what is for me the most interesting and exciting green complex at Carnoustie. There is also a bunker in front of the green which does what so many of the hazards do here, they protrude up from dead flat ground to confuse depth perception and obscure the green sites making it difficult to hazard any kind of guess as to where the pin is tucked. The sensible thing to do would be to glance at the pin position - located on every tee box - but generally we would forget to do this.
Hole 6 is the famous signature hole "Hogans Alley". The name came about in1953, when winner Ben Hogan laced his drive with pin point accuracy between the bunkers and the out of bounds fence in ALL four of his rounds. As we were playing off slightly forward tees from where the Open is played the bunkers never came into play. The green is well guarded with 5 bunkers, one short left, three short right and one place at the back of the green catching any shots over hit through the little gap in front of the green. The first piece of fund raising came from Goldy who made a great up and down from the shelter left of the green. G. Duncan also managed a birdie while my partner and I could only make pars.
[JP trying to thread it down Hogans Alley]
Hole 7 is a well bunkered but bleak par 4, If you decide to take driver you are forced down the left side bringing the out of bounds into play. If you take an iron to avoid the fairway bunkers right you then bring the short left fairway bunker into play.
Hole 8 is the first of 3 good par 3's. It only measures 160 yards but with deep bunkers either side of the green and out of bounds left there is not much room for error. The green site is slightly raised making anything that's not in the green a tricky 2nd. After hole 7 being halved in pars, J.P narrowly missed his birdie putt unfortunate for us but good for the first tee that Mike rolled his birdie putt home, After all par 3's are where you should make your score. 2 down through 8 not good for team J.P.
Hole 9 is again flat but requires a straight tee shot as its lined with 4 fairway bunkers, trees down the left and a ditch running the length of the hole right. The second shot is always deceiving due to the flat terrain that leads you to the green. Mike took the tourist route sown 14 off the tee while my partner tried his trusty sling from right to left. It was going good until it crashed into the face of the bunker, thinking that the worst possible scenario would be a pitch out sideways was wrong. Its the first time ever I have seen a ball plugged in the face of a riveted bunker. With me the only one on the green in regulation and putting for birdie I thought we may have gained one back before the turn but little twinkle toes sleeved his putt from off the green for his third birdie and to go 3 up at the turn. An impressive -4 better ball score for G Dunc and Mike. Myself and J.P would have to pull our socks up to get back into this game... Although, ANYTHING can happen around CarNASTY, especially down the stretch!
Hole 10 is a flat hole running along the railway. This can be a little off putting when a train screams by you mid swing, blasting the horn...luckily this never happened! With a cluster of 3 fairway bunkers cut down the right side and another placed down the left, this flat hole is by no means easy. The fairway bunker left leads you to favour the right side but with a tree front right of the green it makes the second shot tricky. There is a burn that meanders in front of, Then round the green making the left side more favourable for the approach. After two cracking shots in from G Duncan and Mike the pressure was on. Walking down 10 was unreal. Three balls guarding the pin and the sun starting to descend - it was picture perfect. Mike's tremendous shot in was only sitting a few inches from the hole so the pressure was on for me to hole from around 8 feet to save us from going 4 down, needless to say my Billy Mayfair like putting stroke never succeeded AGAIN and it was looking a little gloom for team J.P.
Hole 11 is a cracking little par 4 that dog legs slightly from left to right. With two bunkers on either side of the this tight fairway, I always feel that taking the driver over them is the play leaving a short pitch on the two tiered green. In the 1999 Open if you were to attempt to hit over the bunkers your landing zone would have been a mere 8 paces wide. Mike and G Duncan were in position A from the tee, where as myself and J.P opted to take in more of the course. One right and one left. Mike was left asking for advice after sculling it from the tightly mown fairway. After a nice routine par from J.P it gave me the chance to go for my 10 foot birdied chance and clinch a hole back. Finally a putt sank and we were on the comeback.
Hole 12 is the second of three par fives. Its probably more like a par four and a half. With only two fairway bunkers and a ditch both running down the right side its probably more sensible to favour the left side off the tee. There are 4 bunkers protecting entry to this shallow but wide green. With 3 balls well positioned around the green in two. It was down to the short game. Three birdies and some more fund raising from J.P. We were still 3 down, but with one of the hardest stretches in golf anything could happen.
Hole 13 is a daunting little par 3. The long hourglass green is well protected with bunkers at either side and in front. Leaving it to the imagination as to exactly how close the ball has come to rest. The pin was cut front middle of the green making it very assessable. J.P hit a corker of a shot and cries of "Get In" were heard from the gallery. The rest of us hit rather average shots although we all had possible chances. No one converted and it was on to the spectacles still 3 down.
Hole 14 is the last par 5 at Carnoustie named the "Spectacles" After the 2 huge bunkers sitting side by side waiting to catch any shots not long enough. Before you reach the spectacles you have to make your way past the 3 left fairway bunkers and one right fairway bunker. The further you hit the ball from the tee the narrower it gets. Making pin point accuracy with the driver vital if you fancy your chances in getting home in 2. J.P had to lay up short of the specs after pulling his drive into the left rough. G Duncan tried going for glory but was headed right for the huge bunker sitting slightly off set from the front of the green so it was down to Mike and I who were perfectly positioned up the right side. Mike hit and nice shot in which came to rest around 60ft from the flag just off the left side of the green. My ball was sitting nicely around 15ft. G Duncan hit a average shot from the bunker and had his work cut out to make birdie. Mike who I've noticed is a bit of a 3 putt specialist, left his putt a good 15 ft short and had some work to make birdie and raise some more funds for the First Tee. After a decent eagle putt my ball came to rest within gimme range and both Mike and G Duncan missed their putts. Back to 2 and as I have said before anything can happen down the stretch.
Hole 15 is a quality par 4 that doglegs slightly from right to left. The drive should ideally hug the left side of the fairway but with gorse running the length of the hole it’s hard to commit to that side. The right side is not much better, The green is again well protected with bunkers and sits in a slight bowl. The green is hidden from the fairways leaving you in suspense as to where your approach shot has ended. Anything big will end up in the thick native grass. Myself and Mike were in great position from the tee. G Duncan's second shot was right down the stick but was a club too much. From position A, Mike ended up 30 yards right of the green leaving a tricky pitch out the deep rough over a gorse bush.
As we were strolling down the fairway, I thought Miguel Angel Jimenez had come out to spectate on this glorious evening. Turns out it was big ED, the boys mate from New Zealand. After we were all introduced and lots of excitement we made our way to the green. G Duncan's ball had ended up through the back and faced a tricky pitch shot. My ball was lying a good 50ft from the pin and not having holed one of these all season I wasn't expecting too much. I stood over the putt and rolled it home for the birdie and to take the match back to 1. It must have been the good luck of Ed which helped me break my Duck (On the greens)...Victory, QUACK QUACK
Hole 16 is an absolute whopper of a hole. A 250 yard par three played to a plateau green. Only a straight shot shall suffice here. There are three bunkers right and two left all short of the green so anything running up here has to be dead on line. The entrance to the green is not much wider than a snooker table. So with no room for error we hit off. Mike again favoured the right side. J.P rolled his birdie effort up just missing as did myself and G. Duncan.
Hole 17 named "Island" get this name because of the Barry Burn crossing the fairway at around 200 yards. Moving up the left side of the fairway the wrapping back across the fairway at 280 yards thus creating almost an island to place your drive. If you manage to find this generous Island off the tee then you are still left with a 200 yard shot. The green has 3 bunkers sitting to the right and one around 20 short left. Everything slopes from left to right but with that bunker there its a brave shot to take. Luckily for us it was flat calm so play was blast it straight at the pin. Mike decided to hit a half shank into the burn off the tee leaving him pretty much out the hole [and scrapping around painfully for the strokeplay game he was having with Jamie]. After an average drive down the right side from G Duncan which found a mound he was left with a tricky second shot, He drew a high 4 wood in, landing it just in side of the bunker. I knew it was going to be good. I hit a good shot, in landing a few feet from the pin releasing on to around 10 ft. J.P had a nice little downhill left to right slider for a four net three and to more than probably keep the match alive after I missed my birdie attempt. It was a tough putt and just slid by the side door, G Duncan then had a six footer to win the match, needless to say he holed it and it was game over.
Hole 18 needs no introduction. The boys had been challenged to beat Jean Van De Veldes 7, but wait for it..... The only club they were allowed to use was a putter. After J.P did not get his usual right to left sling ball it was down to Mike who smoked it off the tee. The second shot was unreal, It was a 200 yard ‘lay up’ perfectly placed in front of the burn. So that's right Mike then had to somehow loft the 4 degree putter in the air to get over the burn then stop it quick enough from going out of bounds. He opted for the left hand option and chipped it beautifully. It flew across the burn and settled in the back right corner of the hole just off the green. From here all Mike needed to do was three putts or better to beat Van de Velde. From the semi rough he stroked down the hill and towards the hole. It very nearly went in for par, but had to settle for what could be one of the best bogeys ever. I think there should be some donations for that effort...its all on video courtesy of big ED [with footage to come]. G Duncan decided to make another birdie for a total tally of 7 and an impressive round of golf (69) at the famous Carnoustie.
It was an absolute splendid evening of Golf. Thanks to G Duncan for signing us on. Carnouste is the only course in Scotland to charge the boys something to play. Gary did tell the starter the "Pure Golf" story, the reply was "Very good, I played golf four days in a row last week" Not quite the same mate but not to worry!! Maybe when Carnousite read this they will get a red face and decide to donate some real cash to help 1st Tee Charity.
Its was back to mine in "St Andrews" for the night so the boys could get some shut eye before there big day at the "Home of Golf" the following morning.
Gents!!
Scores: Jamie 78, Michael 81, Gents 72, Gary 69!!!
As many of you will know, the Queen (or “Liz” as she’s affectionately known to her friends) keeps a residence at Balmoral in the Highlands of Scotland. It’s a rather nice estate. Liz and her brood (and her brood’s brood) spend a bit of time there every summer – from memory, from August to October. All of this is more or less common knowledge to anyone with either a UK passport or a remote interest in the British royal family. However. What not many folk know is that there’s a golf course on the estate; a little 9 holer with stunning views of the surrounding hillsides and more statues than you could shake a stick at. Neither of us had any idea of its existence until our recent visit to Royal Aberdeen, when Zyg told us of his father’s membership there. Zyg Senior kindly invited us for a leisurely Sunday evening whack and the rest as they say is history.
After playing Boat of Garten in the morning – a gorgeously picturesque but very undulating James Braid layout up the road – the legs were a bit weary when we hopped into the car. I soon forgot about this though. Because the road down to Deeside is nothing short of exhilerating; an opportunity to Get Schumacher On It and zip through the Highlands at a great clip. You fly past ski fields, down through valleys and could even find yourself airborne if you’re not careful coming off any of the 462 blind summits. (Don’t worry Graham & Trina, The Tank took it easy and felt no pain).
Zyg & Zyg – who sound like a Polish pop group – met us in the carpark across the river from the estate, where we had to leave our car in case it was full of explosives. Sticks transferred and passports in pocket and we were ready for action. PC Plod kindly allowed us into the property after inspecting Zyg’s pass (he’s the Queen’s appointed surgeon while she’s up here).
I was half hoping to see a Royal or Three as we wound through the property and up to the “clubhouse”, but no sign. They must’ve been taking afternoon tea somewhere up in the hills, or dong whatever royal families do. Probably the same as normal families. In any case they were hiding.
The clubhouse is a modest affair, befitting of the understated Good Scottish Atmosphere of the place. Inside is a pretty straightforward locker room with dunny, and bothy-like facilities such as fridge, sink and an empty table. You could be forgiven for thinking you’re in the wrong place. I must say though that the spartan hut endeared itself to me with its unassuming charm and complete lack of pretense. So much so that I even signed the visitor’s book, next to the names of the Sultan of Brunei and the Dutch Royal Family.
The theme continues when you walk onto the 1st tee. Only when you walk 150 yards or so and spot a statue or two do you realise that you’re at no ordinary golf course. Albert is perched in the trees overlooking both 1 and 17 green. I have no idea when his reign was, but it must’ve been a long time ago. I wonder whether he played his summer golf up here? (I expect my question will trigger a disgusted reaction in a keen historian in the audience, and will no doubt get an email or comment explaining why clearly he did or he didn’t). Victoria is on the other side of the 1st - hence the hole's name, "Albert and Victoria."
On the 2nd hole you play across the driveway down into The Depths. It’s a straightforward little flip with a lob wedge – indeed 2 of us nearly holed out – but there’s mischief lurking behind the green if you find yourself distracted by the bonnie view of the Crathie Kirk behind (where Liz goes to worship every week, apparently).
The greens are small. Really quite small. Mind you most of the holes are very short, so as long as you keep out of the unkempt rough birdies are up for grabs. I may have had 6, and the other lads had a few too. A good fundraising day when you consider Mike’s stellar effort at Boat in the morning.
In the evening sun Balmoral glowed quite beautifully. On the 4th – a short par 3 playing up hill through a chute – is a striking patch of foxgloves, which I snapped on the phone (see below); the Zygs and Goldstein also posed for a team snap at my insistence. They are pictured below too.
By the 6th tee is the Queen’s weekender which – at about half a mile from her main residence – is closer to home than most people’s getaways. Mind you it probably is much less arduous to staff and would come in handy if Liz was dashing in and out for whatever reason.
Zyg Junior and I paired up for a match against Zyg Senior and Goldy. We’d teamed up together at Royal Aberdeen the week prior and only managed a half, but on this occasion we snuck a victory with Zyg dropping a bomb on the 18th for par. A memorable victory.
Only under special circumstances do we play 36 holes, because it effectively means our legs get sorer than they need to (awwwwwwwwwww I hear you sigh). Balmoral however is very special – not the sort of place you get the chance to play every week. A bonnie wee track in quite surreal surrounds; and good company on a sunny summer’s evening. Huge thank you to Zyg & Zyg – one to remember.
JP
After a great nights sleep in the highland tourist town of Braemar we took to the roads to make it to Blairgowrie where a 1042am tee time on the Alister Mackenzie designed Rosemount course awaited us.
After scooting through the highland roads in the merc, through a couple of Scottish ski areas such as Glenshee and Cairngorm we emerged in Blairgowrie a township situated in the northern part of the Perthshire district.
Greeting us was the familiar face of Marc Gentles – our pal from St Andrews, and his colleague who also keeps occupied by keeping the Old Course in tip top shape - Gavin. After a steady steam of rain all morning, the skies lightened some time between going in to change my shoes in the locker room and making it to the first tee. Perfect.
The first hole was a rude awakening. After playing a couple of short tracks yesterday our ‘warm up’ hole was a 438 yard dog leg left to a green surrounded by bunkers. No time to loosen up and definitely no practice balls but we’re used to that now in Scotland. The second hole said ‘welcome to a MacKenzie course’. If the brown sand was turned a shade of white and the heather around the bunker edges turned into fescue, we could have been back at the Meadow Club on day 131… Although even compared to San Francisco (the worst winter I ever had was that summer in San Francisco…) the temperature was cool and the jerseys were firmly still on.
The haggle? Gents and I against the pretenders. Gents, coming off a 65 at the new course last week (read: this boy should stop messing around and become a pro golfer as he sure can play) was always going to be the trump card so when the balls came down I was safe in the knowledge that my partner had strong shoulders need I be carried for a few holes...
The course reeked Mackenzie. Most of the holes had widish fairways with half the bunkers guiding the way and the other half acting mainly as a visual deterrent. If I got a pound for every time someone said one of the cross bunkers that were often 30-40 yards short of the green ma de the hole look deceptively short, I would have left the course a rich man. A few of the green complexes reminded us of Pasatiempo – for me the par three 17th sat back up at the tee almost like the famous 16th green at Pasatiempo. The only issue was that the greens were rolling at about a 7 on the stint meter and therefore did not play as A. Mac. probably would have liked – navigating the slopes on and around the greens required far less skill to conquer than they ordinarily would.
Some excitement happened early in the round after a string of a few pars had Gents and I out of the box running. From about 100 yards out on the par five 5th hole, after pitching out of the heather, I managed to hole out with my trusty gap wedge and thereby break my Scotland Eagle Drought. Finally! It’s a crazy game – I’ve had all kinds of putts for eagle over the last month and missed them all but then this! 30 pounds for The First Tee (10 from each of our donors – we’re currently looking for donors to take part in the Irish Birdie Challenge starting at Royal Belfast on 27 August!!!).
Another unusual feature of MacKenzie courses that popped up at Rosemount is back to back par fives – here on holes 10 and 11. Back to back long holes is a great way to make or break your round particularly when each hole weaves through the trees and heather meaning that there is a premium placed on hitting the fairway. Gents ate up the par fives hitting short irons into many of them and if he could putt would have been about 6 under through the stretch of four of them between the 5th and 14th holes.
Another cool hole followed the set of par fives – the 290 yard par four 12th. MacKenzie at his best with bunkering everywhere and a huge element of risk reward if you try to drive the green. Gents went with the reward option missing his 4th eagle putt of the round whilst JP and I went for the ‘risk’ option and managed to scrap out pars from all kinds of places you’re not supposed to visit.
Turning for the last four we were warned by the local lads that we were in for a treat of a finish. I was hoping they wouldn’t be too difficult as after choking yesterday on going under par I was hoping to crack the nut again today by coming in with a birdie and a few pars. The 15th didn’t disappoint - a short wedge to a tiered green sunk below a front bunker that blocked out the bottom of the pin and thus impacted our perception of distance. We all flew it over the pin but Gavin and I were lucky enough to sneak our putts in – to half the first hole of the double or quits match (the main affair had been completed courtesy of another of Gents two putt birdies on the par five 14th).
16 was another gem of a par five snaking around a bonnie loch to a bowl green some 470 yards away. It’s really probably a par four-and-a-half (like many of the par fives here). 17 again has a spectacular green and then 18 snakes down to the right although I missed that completely after playing down the first fairway…. Missing it big is key. A putt for -1 on the last hole lipped out and so for a second day it wasn’t to be. Gents on the other hand bottled a three footer to miss out on an under par round, but it was some display of golf after his horrendous start had him 4 over through 4.
As we finished out on the last and went in for a shower the rain begun. Wet rain. People were fleeing the course and it looked unpleasant. Again, it was perfect timing as we sat in the pristine clubhouse and had a spot of lunch before our drive through to Dundee in the afternoon. Carnoustie tomorrow – better get a good nights sleep!
Saturday the 7th of August is nearly a week ago but amidst the hectic nature of the last week there has been little time to blog. Here we go with part one of what was a long day of golf and travel. It all began in the house of Asher in Nairn where we’d caught some much needed rest before our drive south to the Boat of Garton Golf Course. This is an inland course with plenty of heather and tree lined fairways that was designed by James Braid and is spoken of fondly and seems to regularly appear in lists of ‘hidden gems’ to be played in Scotland.
Despite having a strict schedule of drive, golf, drive, golf and then find somewhere to sleep, we started our day running late as certain blogs were taking longer than normal to write / upload. And so it was not the ideal preparation as we got straight out of the car, said g’day to the assistant professional and went straight to the tee. Then our day took a turn for the better as we asked a two ball who were about to tee off if they would like to join us for the round. Nualko and Eric obliged and moments later we were walking down the par three opening hole getting to know these two friendly Spaniards currently on a two week golfing holiday through Scotland.
This wasn’t your ordinary golfing holiday – it was entirely spontaneous. Nualko and Eric hadn’t got around to booking flights or arranging holiday plans so last Sunday they packed their car – golf clubs included and started driving from Barcelona to Scotland, stopping on the way for a hit in France, England and now were picking our brains about where we recommended they travel to next in Scotland. A carefree way to travel. Eric started his golf like he hadn’t a care in the world and through 5 holes was 1 under par (probably net 8 under par). We were trying to navigate our balls through the heather with mixed results. This Scottish heather can be gnarly stuff. The course, despite being short, was tight and the greens small and undulating. It reminded me of a course I used to play a lot called Hanmer Springs. If you hit the greens you’re going to be successful – if not you better have your chipping shoes on. Although heather (thankfully) hasn’t made it to NZ so it doesn’t terrify you when you’re standing on the tee.
As we walked around we heard about life in Barcelona and the celebrations of the Spanish after their win at the World Cup. Nualko also shared with us about her career working with Sony and about her diverse background (she is Japanese and has immigrated to Barcelona after living there as a child and so speaks at least a few languages fluently).
There were opportunities for fundraising in a big way as a number of par fours were drivable. Probably about 4 to be precise. And having the Scotland birdie challenge set for us it’d be rude not to try and hit driver on all of them and go for the occasional (but so far unforthcoming) eagle. Sometimes this strategy worked, sometimes less so. I would always encourage it on the quirky 15th - a green played over two huge mounds to a blind green which is shaped in a huge bowl - a good shot could be rewarded in a big way - I'm sure there has been the odd albatross here - but it can equally play havoc with your score - particularly for higher handicappers who get caught out in the gullies between the mounds. But all in all this course is about the atmosphere and the laid back vibe as you walk around in the Highlands, on a perfect summers day with panoramic views of the countryside all around. This is a different kind of golf to what we’ve been used to on the links courses of Scotland. As far as being a hidden gem? I don't know if it's that hidden as it seems to be widely reverred - but I wouldn't hesitate in recommending it to anyone who is keen for a hit of parkland golf here in Scotland. It's not jumped up, perfectly manicured resort style golf but it's a good fun and picturesque track that'll leave you smiling and, like Nualko and Eric, looking forward to your next round of golf.
As the round drew to a close I looked at the card as found myself well under par. And then the hands got a bit sweaty, the swing shortened and the putting stroke went awry. Staggering in to shoot par was a little disappointing but Eric made up for it by holing out from 50 yards on the last for a birdie! I think he still managed to come second in his private match with Nualko (who can really play) which means dinner would probably have been on him Sat night! The birdie barrage for day 220 of puregolf2010 had begun with 5 clocked up and with one more full round to follow in the afternoon at Balmoral it loomed to be a successful day on this front.
We shook hands and swapped details and headed into the clubhouse for a drink and a quick bite of lunch before we bid adeu to our friends and jumped in the car, on route to the Balmoral Estate….
M
Royal Dornoch though revered and legendary and brilliant and gorgeous and all of the above, is actually quite a down to earth place. Many of the Great Clubs of the World are. If I’m not speaking out of turn, the club’s modest website gives little indication that visitors and members alike have the privilege of experiencing one of golf’s true pleasures. That’s part of Dornoch’s charm. It doesn’t blow its own trumpet or tell you that it’s one of the best clubs in the world – it just is. There’s a lot to be said for modesty.
The club is steeped in history (aptly paraphrased on the website), its roots being traced back to The Year Of Our Lord 1616 – making it the 3rd oldest club in Scotland, after St. Andrews and Leith. In 1877 it was formed as The Royal Dornoch Golf Club (its previous incarnation being the The Sutherland Golfing Society, which played on the links at Dornoch and down the road at Golspie); in 1906 the club received the Royal Decree. Despite being titled it can rightly claim – as it does – “to exceed the expectations of [their] frequent visitors and loyal members...in a relaxed, informal environment, with an emphasis on traditional highland hospitality.” The first member of staff we met was George, the Starter – an aged gentleman who’s been in Dornoch “all [his] life”. Because ours was the first tee time on a fine Saturday morning (7.30am), George was out raising the flags and getting ready for the day ahead. We got chatting and were it not for the golf we mightn’t have stopped until lunch. A lovely old guy, proud of Royal Dornoch and to be associated with it.
Speaking of nice Highland chaps, I must mention John. The Royal Marine Hotel – which kindly put us up last night at the eleventh hour in a lovely suite – allowed us to sneak an early breakfast before hitting the road. (I trust Michael has told you in yesterday’s blog about the kindness of Joan, the General Manager; the wonderfully traditional sitting room and lobby with walls covered in golf memorabilia and photos of Royal Visits; the awesome leisure facilities; and the generally welcoming ambience of the RMH – a wonderful example of Highland Hospitality). John took care of us while we shovelled in as many calories as we could in 15 minutes or so. He couldn’t help us enough – and tried to fill our pockets with as much as we could take away, to last us the day! Just the sort of boost you need when you’re low on energy. John could teach most people in the hospitality industry a thing or two...
The words of wisdom from the pro, and from George, were to keep it on the fairway and aim for the middle of the greens. Pretty standard stuff, you might say, but their words really resonated once we’d had a chance to see a few of the greens... (a bit like how Kenny Thompson told me at Prestwick, “you’ll either find [your ball] or you won’t” when it crashed into the heather). Call them up turned saucers; describe them as crowned – whatever. In plain English: they tend to fall away from nearly every angle. The landing areas then are much smaller than you think – and Texas Wedging is particularly tricky because your uphill putt often goes downhill before it reaches the hole, making speed Key. This is where Donald Ross plied his trade as Professional and Head Greenkeeper before making his name over The Pond. It’s easy to see where he drew his inspiration (though there is a school of thought that claims Ross’ Pinehurst No.2 greens were originally bowl shaped – quite the opposite to their current state – and so his signature design mark is really a fallacy).
Anyway enough on that. The beauty of this place is what I most want to impress upon you Dear Reader. First I want to say that there’s no better time to play than at 7.30am as the first group out. The air had a gentle bite to it, but the sun peering through the clouds over the North Sea would soon make its glow felt. Wind as it generally is was tame during this first stanza of day (take note Tim Borren!). I felt like the town and the golf course, like me, was just waking up. Even the gorse managed to look graceful in this soft light (though it soon revealed its true character). We teed off with scarcely a soul in sight, at once excited and contented. It’s in this euphoric state that I enjoy my golf most.
Holes 1 and 2 warm you up before the golf course famously opens up before you on the walk to the 3rd tee. On 2 I had my first encounter with a Dornoch pot bunker, my ball nestling in a spot from which even Seve couldn’t have made par. Mike on the other hand hit a glorious towering short iron to a couple of feet and knocked in his first of 3 impressive birdies on the par 3s.
[View from behind the 3rd tee]
5 is a great little par 4, one of the best we’ve played in Scotland. You hike up to the tee and find yourself presiding over a view that’s hard to describe as anything other than stunning. When you steady yourself you have options. From the yellows (which we were forced to play since they were keeping the whites pristine for a tournament commencing the next day), it’s only 350 or so – and with the drop in elevation you could get on with a good 3 wood or mellow driver. But. The green is plateau’d (one of those terms that I’ve never been sure about – is it a proper word?) and guarded at the front by a smattering of pots covering every angle. Mike hit a 2 iron that danced around the lip of one of ‘em; I laid back with a 5 iron to leave a full lob wedge. No birdies for either of us – but, I guess, no doubles either... In the wind this could be torturous. The fairway slopes towards 3 pots on right hand side in the lay up zone too, which you want to avoid at all costs – a beautifully designed hole. Well done Tam. As the website notes, “Position of flag dictates best line from tee.”
I love the description of the very Scottish sounding 6th hole (“Whinny Brae” - pictured below): Par 3, 163 yards. Plateau green built into hillside. Thick whins on hillside on left, also 3 bunkers on left edge of green. Large bunker at right of slope at entrance to green. Steep fall of 12ft. at rear and right of green.” Only in Scotland can they make a 9 iron sound so difficult... In fact if you have the inclination, read the website’s hole-by-hole description for a good laugh. It’s a no nonsense, bare bones description of nothing but hazards! I wouldn’t be surprised if it was written by a Scots caddy, who I’ve heard don’t sugar coat things unlike their American counterparts.
On 8 you hit your first blind tee shot of the day – ideally over the top of the raccoon tail stick in the middle of the fairway. As your ball soars off into the horizon you have to trust that no one’s shifted the stick overnight...because you don’t have a clue what’s going on down below. Fortunately we both found ourselves sitting pretty on the sunken fairway, but still had to leave it all to fate for the approach, which is (semi-)blind too. I took my instructions from Mike – who as he tends to do marched up ahead to the green for a gander. “Land it 25 feet short online or just left of the pin, and it’ll run down nicely.” With a lob wedge I did as I was told, but my ball ended up on the false front that was in fact farther away than Mike described – eroding all trust in any future instructions from my travel companion. A 3 putt ensued, marking the first of Many in a frustrating day on and around the greens! But that’s golf, and that’s Dornoch, and I was too busy enjoying myself to give a rat’s proverbial.
[View from top of the hill on 8, out over the bay]
[Looking back from behind the par 5 9th green]
Something remarkable happened on the short par 3 10th: Michael failed to make a birdie, instead carding a careless par. Dornoch’s collection of (four) par 3s is quite something – they’re all quite short, but well contoured nonetheless, so birdies aren’t easy to come by. Mike had 3 of ‘em – a testament to his fine short iron abilities. I had another 3 putt from the wrong side of a nasty tier!
By this time the locals were out in force on the dunes and on the beach, their dogs taking them for a walk. I’d shed my cardigan it was so balmy. There were still a few Berghaus Gore Tex numbers about though – God knows why; they must’ve known something I didn’t (like our good fortune was about to come to an end). That’s one of my favourite things about playing Scottish links, actually, now that I think about it. Whereas in the US at the best clubs it’s only golfers and caddies in sight (the outside world being excluded by Fort Knox like perimeters in many cases), here you can people watch while your playing partners are hacking away. Old couples in their parkas with ancient looking West Highland Terriers in tow; young families tearing around with lusty abandon and spaniels or chocolate labs in pursuit; a guy out for a walk to clear the head after The Night Before. In this way the golf courses are much more part of the fabric of the community – places that mean different things to different people, but in any case – at least in summer – are alive with activity. And so it was with Royal Dornoch on the fine Saturday morning we played.
[The 12th isn't as hard as it looks]
[Looking across from the 12th tee to the sharp undulations surrounding the 5th green, and bonnie house above]
Down the back 9 there are birdie holes if you’ve got your short game shoes on. But like Brora yesterday it was a fine art stopping the ball down wind – a fine art that I as yet have still to get a remote grasp of let alone master. If I was to describe Dornoch’s green complexes in one word it’d be “humbling.” The second word I would use is “fun” - because it’s genuinely a buzz trying to get your wee white thing close even if time after time you’re being humbled. To be sure it’d be a boring game if you had it perfected.
As we walked up and down the last few holes it was still not 10am, leaving us the rest of the day ahead to use as we pleased. It dawned on me that I might not be back here for a while, so made a point of pausing to take in the views and grab a snap or two for posterity. This one below is of the 17th from the top of the hill, looking down to the fairway and back up again to the green. In spring when the gorse is in bloom this – like the rest of the course – would no doubt look yet more magnificent.
Not far from the 18th green was George, ushering Americans to the tee and making sure they got away on time. We stopped to thank him and to share a few thoughts. He must surely be one of the reasons why people love this place so much, in that he epitomises the humility and warmth this place exudes. If you stop in at Dornoch make sure you introduce yourself to George (if you’re playing you won’t miss him, of course).
I did a quick rec’y of the clubhouse and it’s impressive collection of artifacts. Among them is the very impressive Carnegie Shield, which is played for every year. It was donated to the club in 1901 by Mr. and Mrs. Andrew Carnegie, whom I mentioned in the Skibo blog. In other cabinets were medals from decades and centuries gone by, no doubt played for in good spirits by modest, good natured highlanders.
JP
Shinnecock
auckland dodgy donald ross links mackenzie melbourne mornington mornington peninsula new york queensland rain royal sandbelt scotland sunshine coast sydney the first tee tpc us open wow
