As many of you will know, the Queen (or “Liz” as she’s affectionately known to her friends) keeps a residence at Balmoral in the Highlands of Scotland. It’s a rather nice estate. Liz and her brood (and her brood’s brood) spend a bit of time there every summer – from memory, from August to October. All of this is more or less common knowledge to anyone with either a UK passport or a remote interest in the British royal family. However. What not many folk know is that there’s a golf course on the estate; a little 9 holer with stunning views of the surrounding hillsides and more statues than you could shake a stick at. Neither of us had any idea of its existence until our recent visit to Royal Aberdeen, when Zyg told us of his father’s membership there. Zyg Senior kindly invited us for a leisurely Sunday evening whack and the rest as they say is history.
After playing Boat of Garten in the morning – a gorgeously picturesque but very undulating James Braid layout up the road – the legs were a bit weary when we hopped into the car. I soon forgot about this though. Because the road down to Deeside is nothing short of exhilerating; an opportunity to Get Schumacher On It and zip through the Highlands at a great clip. You fly past ski fields, down through valleys and could even find yourself airborne if you’re not careful coming off any of the 462 blind summits. (Don’t worry Graham & Trina, The Tank took it easy and felt no pain).
Zyg & Zyg – who sound like a Polish pop group – met us in the carpark across the river from the estate, where we had to leave our car in case it was full of explosives. Sticks transferred and passports in pocket and we were ready for action. PC Plod kindly allowed us into the property after inspecting Zyg’s pass (he’s the Queen’s appointed surgeon while she’s up here).
I was half hoping to see a Royal or Three as we wound through the property and up to the “clubhouse”, but no sign. They must’ve been taking afternoon tea somewhere up in the hills, or dong whatever royal families do. Probably the same as normal families. In any case they were hiding.
The clubhouse is a modest affair, befitting of the understated Good Scottish Atmosphere of the place. Inside is a pretty straightforward locker room with dunny, and bothy-like facilities such as fridge, sink and an empty table. You could be forgiven for thinking you’re in the wrong place. I must say though that the spartan hut endeared itself to me with its unassuming charm and complete lack of pretense. So much so that I even signed the visitor’s book, next to the names of the Sultan of Brunei and the Dutch Royal Family.
The theme continues when you walk onto the 1st tee. Only when you walk 150 yards or so and spot a statue or two do you realise that you’re at no ordinary golf course. Albert is perched in the trees overlooking both 1 and 17 green. I have no idea when his reign was, but it must’ve been a long time ago. I wonder whether he played his summer golf up here? (I expect my question will trigger a disgusted reaction in a keen historian in the audience, and will no doubt get an email or comment explaining why clearly he did or he didn’t). Victoria is on the other side of the 1st - hence the hole's name, "Albert and Victoria."
On the 2nd hole you play across the driveway down into The Depths. It’s a straightforward little flip with a lob wedge – indeed 2 of us nearly holed out – but there’s mischief lurking behind the green if you find yourself distracted by the bonnie view of the Crathie Kirk behind (where Liz goes to worship every week, apparently).
The greens are small. Really quite small. Mind you most of the holes are very short, so as long as you keep out of the unkempt rough birdies are up for grabs. I may have had 6, and the other lads had a few too. A good fundraising day when you consider Mike’s stellar effort at Boat in the morning.
In the evening sun Balmoral glowed quite beautifully. On the 4th – a short par 3 playing up hill through a chute – is a striking patch of foxgloves, which I snapped on the phone (see below); the Zygs and Goldstein also posed for a team snap at my insistence. They are pictured below too.
By the 6th tee is the Queen’s weekender which – at about half a mile from her main residence – is closer to home than most people’s getaways. Mind you it probably is much less arduous to staff and would come in handy if Liz was dashing in and out for whatever reason.
Zyg Junior and I paired up for a match against Zyg Senior and Goldy. We’d teamed up together at Royal Aberdeen the week prior and only managed a half, but on this occasion we snuck a victory with Zyg dropping a bomb on the 18th for par. A memorable victory.
Only under special circumstances do we play 36 holes, because it effectively means our legs get sorer than they need to (awwwwwwwwwww I hear you sigh). Balmoral however is very special – not the sort of place you get the chance to play every week. A bonnie wee track in quite surreal surrounds; and good company on a sunny summer’s evening. Huge thank you to Zyg & Zyg – one to remember.
JP
Waking up in the West End of Glasgow was unexpected. But that is how we roll and we had found a new friend in Tommy and his li’l dog Sushi. The two of them had joined us the prior night for a Guinness or two and it may not be the last we see of Tommy as looks like we may join up for a hit in the coming weeks when we next venture to Glasgow.
It was about 1pm by the time we rolled into Edinburgh where we met Jamie’s auntie Gillian who was taking us out to her 9 hole course in central Edinburgh – Ravelston.
Gillian and Ian have had us to stay with them for a few nights already in our Scotland leg and for that we are both very grateful. I must apologise to Ian for leaving their internet cord plugged into my mac during the day… Caused a few consternations, but the yellow cord is back in and all is well.
Gil (pictured with JP below) plays her golf at both Ravelston and Kilspindie and is a Keen Golfer like us which is great. She’s proud of Ravelston and rightly so. It’s a picturesque wee course that has views overlooking the city of Edinburgh, is a good layout (albeit 9 holes) and most importantly has a good group of keen members who sound like they make it a strong club.
It is a challenge too. Holes play across an undulating piece of land and when the breeze is blowing like it was today it’s a real test. So much so that neither of us managed a single birdie today which doesn’t do the fundraising much good.
There are a couple of great views at Ravelston, particularly as you play down to greens framed by a stone wall and houses. I thought I had sculled a bunker shot into said house at one stage but fortunately it held up… Good thing my green fee ticket came with associated insurance, valid only for one day.
Across the way is Murrayfield Golf Club and supposedly they want Ravelston’s 9 holes so they can have a 27 hole golfing establishment. I don’t think Ravelston are so keen on the idea. And they aren’t doing so badly themselves judging by the nice wee extension on their clubrooms.
Ravelston is a great example of an inner city course that encourages people to simply get out and enjoy some fresh air and a spot of golf. And you can’t beat that.
Thanks Gil for taking us on and for looking after us (and feeding JP’s brother Connor who can eat. And eat. And eat).
Golf on Day 147 was always going to be a low key affair. At 3pm on Day 146 we rolled out of Phoenix and onto the 10 Freeway heading east...towards Dallas. Google Maps clocks the journey at 1068 miles. It felt longer.
Add to the mixer a hint of uncertainty - over Dodgy's long haul capabilities - and you have an interesting episode in the saga that is puregolf2010. Against all the odds it was quite an enjoyable 22 hours. Travelling in Dodgy is like travelling business class on a long haul flight, in some ways. There's plenty room; a bed to lay your head on; a built in chilly bin (in this case stocked full of Starbucks espresso cans, red bulls, powerades and anything else that might keep us awake); and a quality stereo. The engine purred gracefully too, masking Dodgy's true...longevity.
Outside the tinted windows were cacti rising 30 feet into the air, boulders the size of shopping malls and wide open expanses of Not Much. Everything's huge in these parts (including the trucks that do their best to block every road sign from view).
Anyway we arrived in Dallas early afternoon, and did a brief interview (scroll to "Norm Golfer" segment, on Thursday) with the local radio kingpin, Norm Hitzges (who by fortunate coincidence loves all things Kiwi and is pals with Phil T). A good yarn it was too, even though I nearly keeled over half way through from the suffocating heat within a parked Dodgy oven.
Relief was the overwhelming emotion when we reached Phil’s place – after getting lost in the labyrinth that is the golf complex he lives in (we were looking for “eagle street”; found “par street”; assumed the next street would be “birdie street” so drove straight on and missed the turn (there was no "birdie street" - no logic to the street naming system here). Both of us were pretty delirious, and probably not much chop on the conversation front when we arrived – but after years on the road Phil and wife Mel could relate to our plight and so were very understanding. And welcoming.
We met son Kahu (9 years old) and daughter Talia (a few years his younger). Lovely kids. Kahu’s going to be a real ladies man, and he’s got a bit of sporting prowess about him too (not surprising when you look at mum and dad). As soon as the bags were unloaded from Dodgy we got out into the yard and shot some hoops with Kahu. With a 180 dunk (to an 8 foot rim) in my arsenal, I may as well have been Michael Jordan (at 5 foot 10 inches Phil can't reach the basket unless he uses a stepladder...). Then there was a bit of table tennis on the back patio; then a few putts struck on Phil’s practice putting green. This would’ve been my dream house as a kid.
Golf was the last thing I felt like doing – in 40 degree heat – but...well, you know...we sort of have to! Phil tentatively hopped in the driver’s seat of Dodgy and zipped us down to Lake Park Executive, a little 9 hole municipal course in Dallas proper. The course wasn’t much to write home about, but it was perfect for our needs. Because it was a par 3 course it was also great for Kahu to showcase his dynamite short game (which ended up being the decisive factor in bringing victory honours upon him and yours truly). The wee fella had his best 9 hole round ever, with 41 (previous PB 46) – despite a disappointing 8 on the final hole, which he was visibly gutted with. He’s got his father’s competitive streak.
Father and son took turns at caddying for the other on each hole. Father gave son a few tips. Son wasn’t particularly receptive, but desperately wanted to impress Father. The episode reminded me a lot of my early playing days with my dad out at Lundin Links in Fife, Scotland. I never listened to a word he said, and got hopelessly frustrated if things weren’t going my way. All part of growing up.
Back at Tataurangi base camp we fired up the BBQ and grilled a few steaks – well, Phil did, and he did it like a seasoned chef too. More than just a pretty face. One beer; one steak; and a couple of veges was bliss and enough to send me to sleep. It was gutting, initially, to learn there was only one bed (it was Goldy’s turn), but the sofa proved to be more comfortable than a King Size at The Ritz – and being as shattered as I was, I would’ve slept like a log on a bed of nails.
A long day. And a very warm welcome by a Kiwi family. Day 147...
JP
A perfect Saturday in LA. Not a bad day for a spot of sightseeing and a trip down south to the Terranea Resort for a cheeky 9 holes of golf on their new 9 hole resort style course.
Dodgy took to the roads and after an hour or so of seeing some sights we were at the resort and treated to a very warm welcome from the local pro Buddy. The Terranea resort is in a stunning location perched atop the cliffs in a dramatic setting overlooking the Pacific Ocean (we could nearly see NZ) and with huge waves crashing down below. The resort is very close to the cliffs with the 9 hole par three golf course sitting on the higher ground behind the buildings. A pretty good design as we could still enjoy the million dollar views from the golf course.
The resort and golf course were built in the middle of the GFC so it's likely that the place has had a pretty difficult first year or so in operation. But all day we experienced first rate service and could really relax and enjoy the day.
The golf course is probably the best 9 holer we've played this year (although Mahia pushes it pretty close on a budget about 1/1000th the size). There are no trees and is very exposed to the wind so despite being all par threes, I wouldn't say it's a simple track. There are big features around the greens and the greens themselves have some huge swales in and around them. The first few holes into the wind were tough going, but then back down wind trying to stop a wedge on a shallow green was tough work. I must admit to hitting some aweful % shots away from the pin to help score ok.
Golf here was a huge amount of fun. A great contrast to the championship golf courses we've been playing day in day out. It also took about 80 minutes to play, which is great if you don't want your golf taking up the entire day! Bottom line is if I was a guest here I'd definitely enjoy going out for a hit of golf (and if you're after championship golf I think the Trump National course isn't too far away). Jamie and I knocked it around ok as well and were about 3 and 1 over par respectively.
After golf we were couriered down to one of the many restaurants here, Nelsons, where a table was reserved for us. The manager Jessica said g'day and the service from the staff was top notch. Looking around there were people from a wide variety of ages enjoying a drink or two and soaking in the views (Nelsons is right on the cliff tops and crucially, protected from the wind by a glass fence). Jamie had the pork which he described as epic, and I had some pretty handy fish. We washed it down with a local drop called Stones IPA which was just what the doctor ordered after the tough walk around Terranea. Yeah Right.
For us, this was the perfect way to see LA and recharge our batteries for the long road ahead across the country.
Before I go, I'll share with you some refreshing news that we've managed to find time amongst our long round today to do the tourist thing and we've checked out Hollywood Blvd, Santa Monica and Sunset Blvd. I've also had time to briefly catch up with an old friend, Jodene, and Jamie and I met with Paul Parlane, a kiwi golf coach who coaches a few of the A listers over here (including Samuel L Jackson, Pete Sampras and Phil Tataurangi). We had a beer with Paul at a place called Hughs and heard about life for a kiwi guy in LA - doesn't sound too bad at all! Later on we headed out with our champion host, John Shelton who has kindly looked after us here for the last few nights, for a spot of mexican and a pearler of a cocktail at the famous El Coyote's joint just around the corner from our base. All in all a great day.
We have played 100 days of consecutive golf!
We've:
- stayed in 43 different places
- taken nearly 8000 shots each
- walked around 1,000 km
- three putted about 200 times (150M/50J..)
- written 100 blogs
If you are impressed or even inspired by our efforts to date then please donate to The First Tee by clicking the icon at the top of the screen! (or alternatively help us out by contacting us and helping us to get through one of the 265 remaining days!)